Davec2's Next Restoration Challenge! - Scarce Brecknocks Bn.

[2747andy]

I always forget to take "before photos" when send I stuff to Dave to fix!! So I thought I'd share this one with you all, just to see what a cracking job he does.. He's well on the way to becoming a member of the French Resistance (Private Joke that Dave may understand!!). His latest challenge is to remove the brooch fitting and refit a slider to this "Long Scrolled" Brecknockshire Battalion badge!

It'll be with you soon Dave!

Andy

(Red backed badges added on return!)[I][/I]

[Faugh-A-Ballagh]

Lovely badge Andy,
This should present no significant obstacles to .our mutual reliable friend!
Wish I had done a few before and afters myself

John

[davec2]

Hi Andy and John,

You're embarrassing me now

I see the slider should be on the wings ?? does anyone know how long it should be ??

I'm not too sure what the dragon has trod in ( nearside rear foot ) but it's messy ??

Dave.

[2747andy]

Looks like an Englishman's brains to me!!! Mind you looks quite big, I may be wrong! lol

Andy

[Keith Blakeman]

Dave,

Are you using silver solder or braze these days?

[davec2]

Hi Keith,

I have two types of silver solder at the moment, one is a low content ( I don't really like using it ), it is more of a soft solder colour and is better used with a larger surface area but it does work at a lower temperature.

I prefer to use my 66% cadmium free silver solder, yes, I have to use more heat but once done, it stays done, know what I mean ?

Dave.

[davec2]

Originally Posted by 2747andy

Looks like an Englishman's brains to me!!! Mind you looks quite big, I may be wrong! lol

Andy

If you're not careful, I will have to reveal your little secret to the forum !!!

Dave.

[2747andy]

Dave,

loud and clear - No more English jokes!! My lips are sealed and no need to use your bestest solder!! 66% cadmium free silver solder, "[I]yes, I have to use more heat but once done, it stays done,[/I]"

Andy

[davec2]

Andy,

You surely don't want lead solder ???? I have some of that too but we don't talk about it.

Dave.

[Keith Blakeman]

Originally Posted by davec2

Hi Keith,

I have two types of silver solder at the moment, one is a low content ( I don't really like using it ), it is more of a soft solder colour and is better used with a larger surface area but it does work at a lower temperature.

I prefer to use my 66% cadmium free silver solder, yes, I have to use more heat but once done, it stays done, know what I mean ?

Dave.

Thanks Dave,

I haven't progressed to silver solder yet! Is braze out of the question - the reason I ask is I have a Middlesex Pals badge which needs a slider and I really would prefer braze.

[davec2]

Hi Keith,

This is where I might struggle, when I worked, we only ever used braze for unweldable joints such as cupro-brass to steel and the like, if I can remember correctly, it was a far greater temperature than silvering, I can remember though, turning the Oxy-Acetylene torch to full wack when starting a joint !!

I couldn't, in all honesty, tell you how the braze was used back in the days of badge manufacturing, I would hazard a guess that the rods were of a very small diameter ( we used rods of 1/8 inch dia ) but how they managed not to melt it while applying the flux, I don't know.

As you know, repairing a badge or even a small restoration is one thing but to re-create a repair historically is a completely different ball game, let me know when you solve the problem and of course, how ?? sorry I can't be more help !!

Dave.

[davec2]

Hello again Keith,

What I missed and I don't know if it relates to badge manufacturing, is that when I used to braze, we/I wore dark goggles because the flame was so intense, following on from that fact, I would hate to light up and then have to hold such a strong flame on a relatively speaking, thin piece of brass while preparing to braze a joint !!

If you have ever seen on the news, for eg, business related articles relating to bicycle frame manufacturing, you will have seen examples of just how intense the heat and flames are when making a brazed joint, so my thoughts are the same, I'm not sure how it would work on a badge repair, again, sorry mate.

Dave.

[41st]

Great badge Andy, I've never seen a long scroll version before.
Thanks,
Kevin

[magpie]

Originally Posted by davec2

Hello again Keith,

What I missed and I don't know if it relates to badge manufacturing, is that when I used to braze, we/I wore dark goggles because the flame was so intense, following on from that fact, I would hate to light up and then have to hold such a strong flame on a relatively speaking, thin piece of brass while preparing to braze a joint !!

If you have ever seen on the news, for eg, business related articles relating to bicycle frame manufacturing, you will have seen examples of just how intense the heat and flames are when making a brazed joint, so my thoughts are the same, I'm not sure how it would work on a badge repair, again, sorry mate.

Dave.

Hi dave,
I have used braze to repair lugs and sliders but the melting temp is very close to that of the badge,slider and lug and becomes a real pain in the if it doesn't flow.
I would recomend silver solder to keith as the safe option as any small parts of the badge will burn away in the blink of an eye and larger surfaces may melt and sag before you can remove the heat, at best leaving an unsightly rough mark on the front or blowing a large hole in it.
Andy.

[davec2]

Cheers Andy,

At least I now know I wasn't talking rubbish, I've had so much technical data crammed into my head for the last few years of my working life, until I had to pack up in 2003, I sometimes wonder if I am remembering everything correctly and not getting the dreaded crossed wires syndrome etc ???

I prefer silver anyway, I think it's more than strong enough and in my opinion, if anyone damages a repair after silver soldering, they must be pretty ' ham-fisted ', mind you, even with the torch I use I can still drop the preverbial B*****K,

Again thanks.

Dave.