British & Commonwealth Military Badge Forum

Recent Books by Forum Members

   

Go Back   British & Commonwealth Military Badge Forum > British Military Insignia > General Topics.

 Other Pages: Galleries, Links etc.
Glossary  Books by Forum Members     Canadian Pre 1914    CEF    CEF Badge Inscriptions   Canadian post 1920     Canadian post 1953     British Cavalry Badges     Makers' Marks    Pipers' Badges  Canadian Cloth Titles  Books  SEARCH
 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-11-21, 09:56 AM
Paddy's Avatar
Paddy Paddy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portsmouth Area
Posts: 990
Default Low Melting Point Brass Brazing Rods/Wire

Hello All

In the past when I have repaired broken lugs or sliders I have used silver solder which I believe has a melting point of approx 630 - 660 degrees. The problem is that the silver stands out a lot against the gilding metal. Is anyone aware of any brass coloured brazing rods/wire that will melt around the same temperature or even less.

Many thanks

Paddy
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-11-21, 12:40 AM
dumdum's Avatar
dumdum dumdum is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,279
Default

Hi Paddy

My suggestion would be to talk to the local welding supplies place (British Oxygen for us...) as they have an amazing range of rods and alloys.

I have a friend who has repaired stuff for me and he uses silver solder BUT, so he says, the mistake many make is that they think that if a little is good, a lot can be only better.

I despair when I see a badge with a pound of plumber's lead solder on it. These are almost impossible to fix as the lead makes the new silver solder joint very brittle, although they can be done.

He says that if the joint is cleaned well (and this is another mistake that folk make) you would be surprised how little is needed. He flattens and cuts the rod into tiny little chips and uses a solder pick to place them at the base of the lug. It also depends if you apply the solder to the lug/ slider or to the badge and which you chose to heat first.

You can also use jeweller's silver solder which is much finer and requires very little.

The old guys used to make up their own alloys and, for some reason, removing a lug from a damaged badge to use on a repair means that the badge is almost melting before the lug (reluctantly) lets go.

OK hope that may have helped you a bit!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-11-21, 01:24 AM
Artynut Artynut is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada.
Posts: 809
Default

I’ll stick my oar in and definitely agree with “dumdum” . The key to start is , prepare all parts and tools close at hand. Patience, and cleanliness! Take your time and clean the two parts to be joined. “Tin” the two faces, (a very thin application of the joining medium). Your heat source should be at the minimum temperature required to make the medium “run” (be molten), use whatever tools needed to hold the two parts together. Make sure that the tools to hold the parts are not too large or cumbersome as to act as a heat sink when you re apply the torch the the area to be joined, (that will cause an automatic reαcation to raise the temperature, NOT GOOD!). You may have to add a minute amount of the joining medium at this time. Practice makes perfect! All the best, D.J.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-11-21, 03:27 AM
dumdum's Avatar
dumdum dumdum is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,279
Default

Hi D.J. and Paddy

Nice to know that I'm on the right track! I've spoken to John who "does" for me and he's suggested that Paddy should visit his local jewellery supply place and get:
2-3 pairs of crosslock tweezers (they have small riveted wooden pads that disperse the heat). Warning: they can still get hot and the cone of a flame can burn you quite nicely...

some good quality solder flux for silver. John uses borax but there is some liquid stuff that looks like urine (yes, it's true) called Batten's flux

jeweller's silver solder in sheet or wire form

a charcoal block to solder on

John says that he only tins one part of the work (usually the lug/ slider) but fluxes both areas. He's told me that when I next visit he will let me take some photos of before and after!

Watch this space!

Last edited by dumdum; 07-11-21 at 03:29 AM. Reason: Crosslock tweezers hold the lug or slider in the angled jaws
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-11-21, 07:37 AM
Mike H's Avatar
Mike H Mike H is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,377
Default

If you ever watch the "Repair Shop" on tv,the guy who does the silver repairs usually uses chipped solder when repairing stuff.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-11-21, 09:27 AM
dumdum's Avatar
dumdum dumdum is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,279
Default

Yes, a few people try to use the solder rod when doing a repair.

This has the effect of melting too much solder onto the work with resulting "blob"....

In the most extreme instance, it can flow around to the front of the badge and you'll never clean up that mess!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-11-21, 08:00 PM
Paddy's Avatar
Paddy Paddy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portsmouth Area
Posts: 990
Default

Gents

Many thanks for all of your replies. I pretty much do all of the things mentioned and have all the crosslock tweezers and use borax flux etc but have to admit even though I have seen small chips of solder being used I haven't tried it yet nor have I used the urine flux so I will have to keep my eyes open for that. I tend to use Johnson Mathey Easyflo silver solder rods which are 1mm in diameter but no matter how small the joint the silver stands out against gilding metal so part of the reason for my initial post was to see if anyone knew of a low melt brass coloured rod so I think I will have to take up DumDum's advice and contact BOC to see what they can offer.

Many thanks again

Paddy
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-11-21, 10:16 PM
norfolk regt man's Avatar
norfolk regt man norfolk regt man is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: norfolk
Posts: 1,932
Default Silver solder

Hi paddy, silver solder can coloured, from an old nice bronze colour, right up to a nice brass colour. It’s a bit of a task, you need about 4 different chemicals, ones a cleaner, ones a colour, one fix’s the colour, last one seals. I think the name of the company is libaron .
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-11-21, 11:31 PM
Wooffy's Avatar
Wooffy Wooffy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: North West Of England
Posts: 571
Default

This might be of interest

https://albionfireandice.co.uk/produ...-copper-brass/
__________________
__________________________________________________ ______
Always looking for Observer Corps & Royal Observer Corps Items.
My Current 'Wants List' can be found here
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-11-21, 12:07 AM
dumdum's Avatar
dumdum dumdum is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,279
Default

Hi all

Nice to see some good ideas put forward! I've even learnt some things here. BTW, the "urine" flux was only a comment on its colour...

I asked John and it's made by Grobet (BIG American tool suppliers).

Another thought: a small brass wire clean up wheel in a Dremel and be used to impart a brass colour to a joint or even to the face of a discoloured badge. You put the drill on high revs but for heavens sake wear googles as those brass wires fly loose very quick! Also dishwashing liquid "lubricates" the polishing.

OK, I will go and pay a special visit to John and see if we can get some photos of a test run loaded up!

Bound to have a badge that is "lugless" floating round here....
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:24 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.