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#61
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For my bullion items I use a mixture of household ammonia and washing up liquid, about 20ml each, diluted with water to 10 parts. This cleans all bullion and gilt items. Even fire gilt. With bullion items you need to thoroughly rinse off all traces of the ammonia otherwise it will rot the item. |
#62
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Quote:
A few years back, I bought an embroidered, cloth, glider pilot shoulder title for a tenner. It was badly stained and quite ugly. I already had a couple of these in my collection so I took a gamble on cleaning it up. I added approx' 6 capfuls of white, malt vinegar to about half a pint of water and soaked the shoulder title for about 5 minutes. Using a half inch, soft bristle paint brush, I gently worked the solution into the cloth for a minute or so and then I placed it into a dish full of clean water. I repeated the clean water soak stage three or four times then removed the badge. I gently removed the excess water between countless sheets of unbleached paper towel and once that was done I applied some gentle heat by placing the badge on top of my old PC monitor. The results were fantastic, I sold the shoulder title last year for £95 so well worth taking the risk!. Cheers, Kev C |
#63
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I find brown sauce very good.
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#64
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Far tastier too but save it for your bangers n' mash!
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#65
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Recently the Mrs purchased an ultrasonic cleaner on the recommendation of the local dental hospital to clean her very expensive dentures. I have with out her knowledge been experiment cleaning various items. Results using a drop of washing up liquid,(a)metal badges no noticable improvement, (b)sp/gilt and enamel some effect on dirt at edges of enamel and apparent brightening of enamel colouring, (c)cloth arm/hat badges very good results.
Unfortunatly neglected do do before and after photo's. Don't have any more badges that require cleaning but this may be an avenue for experimentation using other cleaning fluids. |
#66
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One to make you cringe,
when I was a kid I used to clean my brass badges by dunking them in "scrubs cloudy ammonia" you had to hold your breath but with a old tooth brush they came out like new. I left one in the solution to long and it turned black !!! if you can get the stuff nowadays worth trying on a scrap badge. Steve |
#67
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A word of caution re cloth badges most red dyes are not fast and may run.
Cleaning cycles on ultra sonic cleaners usually about 3 minutes. |
#68
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Lemon Juice and Verdigris
Some pictures of a badge that I have recently cleaned up that had a lot of verdigris. Not a problem as I knew this before getting them.
Picture 1) and 2) as bought - Lots of verdigris on the back, not so much on the front. Pictures 3) & 4) are after using a mix of 50/50 pure lemon juice and tap water. Phase 1 - badge was soaked for around 15 minutes and an old toothbrush head in one of those electric toothbrush was used to shift the loosened stuff. It isn't that obvious that the front has changed much, this is because the verdigris was much thicker. Phase 2 - I repeated the above a few days later - but sods law dictates that I have misplaced the finished badge for a final picture.... The results of phase 1 were good, phase 2 was even better. Phase 2 consisted of a 75% lemon/25%water solution for around 30 mins. This worked a treat. The lemon juice was out of one of those plastic lemon shaped containers. I had tried white and malt vinegar but was not impressed. Maybe its the water out here..... david Last edited by wright241; 12-10-09 at 02:12 PM. Reason: typo |
#69
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I always use brown sauce, I remembered using it on medals. HP or daddies
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#70
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Sorry mate, but thats reserved for bacon butties.
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#71
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WD40 worked well for me on a title, no change to patina, where the verdigris had actually attacked the metal was brighter but this toned in well after a few days. Would this be due to the age of the metal? (WW1). I mentioned a similar thing happening with another title some time ago, this was rubbed with very fine wet&dry and darkened up again in a week, i`m sure this wouldnt happen with "new" metal.
Bill. |
#72
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Brown Sauce only works because one of its main ingredients is [wait for it] Malt Vinegar!
It does work becouse you can rub it into the badge, leave for a few minutes and rinse off. But useing a 50/50 dip of Vinegar & Water is safer to me... You can also use a paste of Table Salt & Vinegar as a cleaning agent, which is also good for removing stains from cloth. Pure Lemon Juice works as well. |
#73
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Polishing of Badges
Been asked a question on my regimental forum i cant answer for a change! So seek help here.
Many of the older badges especially Victorian ones are in pristine condition with very little evidence of polishing wear. Now i know the soldiery of the time was as fond of the bullshit as they were of 'shoving it up any of the Queen's enemies' and no self respecting soldier would have had a 'minging' badge. so in the absence of Brasso or any other abrasive badge cleaning compound, what in fact did they use to polish their badges? |
#74
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Soot, ash, plate powder, soldiers friend etc. etc.
__________________
Looking for a North Hampshire 37 Glengarry badge, genuine or place saver. |
#75
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Howard,
interesting question! Come to think of it, the majority of my QVC era badges are in pristine condition! The badges when issued come with a gilt/bright finish, if not subjected to abrasive cleaning agents they would remain in such condition. So I supose "cleaning" as been to the degridation of many badges. Verdigris is of course the scourge of metal badges and if not removed will leave permanent damage/staining... I guess the answer is that in the absence of chemical cleaners, they just use soap and water? Andy |
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patina, verdi gris, vinegar |
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