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  #16  
Old 31-05-23, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbuehler View Post
Indeed, you may all be correct in your assessment, but I must remain with mine.
Here are two examples of shiny viscose (rayon) linings from Bernard Weatherill in 1944.

CB
That is not the lining present in the OPs photos, it is a rayon twill (diagonal lines) and heavier. I can only assume you think I was joking, or somehow exaggerating when I said I had seen and handled these more recent jackets at very close quarters and on a fairly regular basis, as one tends to do over almost 40-years in that environment.
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  #17  
Old 31-05-23, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toby Purcell View Post
That is not the lining present in the OPs photos, it is a rayon twill (diagonal lines) and heavier. I can only assume you think I was joking, or somehow exaggerating when I said I had seen and handled these more recent jackets at very close quarters and on a fairly regular basis, as one tends to do over almost 40-years in that environment.
Of course I do not think you are joking and have the utmost respect for your knowledge and experience.
I too have had some experience in collecting and studying uniforms for nigh on fifty years now. I fully admit that I am not familiar with them to such a degree after the 1950s or 60s, and I based my assessment upon that. The two different lining examples I have shown are both from Weatherill 1944, one with the more pronounced twill weave and the other a very fine weave, looking very modern indeed.
I also study and collect older Savile Row civilian bespoke clothing and am interested in tailoring and materials.
From what I can see, the doublet in question has a fairly heavy weight rayon lining, not the thinner polyester of recent times. The fraying on the armpits also shows older style workmanship and materials with a thicker cotton thread and the frayed edges show it is rayon, not polyester construction. Note again the hand sewn button holes; different from that shown on Ceto militaria which are machine made with tell tale bar tack.
If this doublet were as recent as proposed, I would expect to see some poly.
I also realize that older stocks of material could still have been available to some tailors into more recent times, so that could throw my whole theory out, but I just don't think so.
Cheers,
CB
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Last edited by cbuehler; 31-05-23 at 07:08 PM.
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  #18  
Old 31-05-23, 07:47 PM
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I don't know if this will help to narrow it down or not, but at least it is more information. I was looking it over once again and discovered that the large buttons down the front have markings on the back.

They say: Wm. Anderson and Sons Edinburgh
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  #19  
Old 31-05-23, 08:50 PM
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Wm. Anderson and Sons was the old name of what is now Kinloch Anderson.
They were and are outfitters to the Army and civilian tailors. The buttons were subcontracted to other makers such as Firmin or Gaunt, with their trade name added.
I don't know when the name change to Kinloch Anderson occurred, but I believe it has been a long time since buttons such as these were supplied with the old Wm. Anderson & Sons name.

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  #20  
Old 31-05-23, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob63 View Post
I don't know if this will help to narrow it down or not, but at least it is more information. I was looking it over once again and discovered that the large buttons down the front have markings on the back.

They say: Wm. Anderson and Sons Edinburgh
They seem to be still mentioned in 1966, but more research is needed. Buttons were generally contracted in quite substantial numbers so stocks would have gone on for some time after any change in company name.
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  #21  
Old 31-05-23, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbuehler View Post
Of course I do not think you are joking and have the utmost respect for your knowledge and experience.
I too have had some experience in collecting and studying uniforms for nigh on fifty years now. I fully admit that I am not familiar with them to such a degree after the 1950s or 60s, and I based my assessment upon that. The two different lining examples I have shown are both from Weatherill 1944, one with the more pronounced twill weave and the other a very fine weave, looking very modern indeed.
I also study and collect older Savile Row civilian bespoke clothing and am interested in tailoring and materials.
From what I can see, the doublet in question has a fairly heavy weight rayon lining, not the thinner polyester of recent times. The fraying on the armpits also shows older style workmanship and materials with a thicker cotton thread and the frayed edges show it is rayon, not polyester construction. Note again the hand sewn button holes; different from that shown on Ceto militaria which are machine made with tell tale bar tack.
If this doublet were as recent as proposed, I would expect to see some poly.
I also realize that older stocks of material could still have been available to some tailors into more recent times, so that could throw my whole theory out, but I just don't think so.
Cheers,
CB
I acknowledge your thoughtful and well intended comments, but remain of the view I’ve expressed previously. It’s not a very well constructed doublet at all and it would not surprise me if it was knocked up in a Scottish Division tailor’s workshop. The kind of thing a commissioned quartermaster might have purchased to save money from his grant.
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  #22  
Old 31-05-23, 09:06 PM
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I started searching, hoping to find when the name change took place and came across this old thread here:

https://www.britishbadgeforum.com/fo...lliam+anderson

In post #5 another member says the name change was in 1973, but he doesn't say where he got that info.

Lacking anything more definitive, it once again looks to me that it was most likely 1960's.

Last edited by rob63; 31-05-23 at 09:49 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-06-23, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob63 View Post
In post #5 another member says the name change was in 1973, but he doesn't say where he got that info.
That was me !

I can't remember exactly where I got the date from but have a feeling it was from a book about the history of the company.

There was also a 1971 article in the New York Times :

Quote:
William Anderson and Sons, Ltd., kilt makers, at 14-16 George Street, Edinburgh (their American branch, Scotland House, is at 607 South Washington Street, Alexandria, Va.),

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Last edited by mike_vee; 01-06-23 at 07:43 AM.
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  #24  
Old 01-06-23, 09:23 AM
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Perhaps a regimental custom regarding the shoulder pips. I was always told the single pip should point down the wearer's arm.
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