Squeezed Lugs

[jim a]

I recently acquired some badges from a gentleman who had mounted his badges on a wooden board. He had drilled small holes first and then forced the lugs in for a pressure fit. When I popped the badges off the original lugs are still there but have been squeezed shut. I have never tried to remedy this as I didn't want to compound the problem. The question is does anyone know how to fix this or am I hooped? Thanks... Jim

[DavidS]

I routinely straighten and realign badge lugs, and have 'unsqueezed' a couple of badge's lugs in the past. I have set of jeweler's pliers and I used the round nosed set for this, with good results. Instead of normal jaws, these have tapering round points that you can use to spread and reshape the loop without marking it up.

It's important to use 2 sets of pliers at once, one flat jaw set to hold the neck of the lug securely while you use the other set to work on reshaping the loop, to keep from torquing or stressing the solder/brazing join. Otherwise you'll run the risk of snapping off the lug. Copper is malleable, solder or brazing isn't, and it may not take much to snap a joint, esp. in older badges.

Copper also can get brittle with age, so if the lug looks anyway dodgey, i.e. looks pinkish or crystallized, don't try this, as it will most likely snap.

[uncletomscabin]

Hi, I found that using a small center punch (like for punching metal for drilling)that is tapered, but round, will work well. I work it into the loop and it will round the hole out evenly. Holding the other part of the lug with a pair of pliers, so it doesn't spread open. I have one that is about the size of the hole, of a lug. Hope this will help you. Later, uncletom

[wright241]

I am not in the habit of buying badges that have pinched lugs/loops but now I do have one. Is there a reasonably fool-proof way of doing this?
I have un-pinched partially pinched ones before with a pair of small round nosed Lindstroms - this worked ok. However, the lugs on the one I have now are almost closed up. Is it possible or do I have to get a better version of the badge?
david

[Unknownsoldier]

If you really want to give it a go, may I suggest a small flat head screw driver to start you off? And heat it carefully over the gas to soften them etal a bit before you start.

Tom

[wright241]

Originally Posted by Unknownsoldier

If you really want to give it a go, may I suggest a small flat head screw driver to start you off? And heat it carefully over the gas to soften them etal a bit before you start.

Tom

Tom,
The words "if you really want to give it a go" may come back to haunt me.
I have tried small jewelry screwdrivers before on a scrap badge and I did use a small butane torch as well (at low flame) but the badge metals became discoloured.
Thanks for the tip. The words in quotes probably apply and I'll leave well alone.

[John Mulcahy]

I find that (gently) driving a small awl through the loop while using needle nose pliers to support the circumference of the loops works well.

no accidents yet!!

John

[Peter Brydon]

I have given up trying and mount the badge as it is and wrap some thin wire around the pinched lugs behind the card the badges are mounted on to keep them in position.

I have too may accidents in the past to try re-open the lugs/loops,often you end up with one ,or even worse,no lugs.

P.B.

[Pylon1357]

I too have had the same issues. Pinched lugs can be a real bugger. I have used every method listed above. Up to and Including mounting the badge as is.

I found the best method for me is to use a very pointed heat source (I have a butane mini torch with a very precise flame) and hold the base of the lug with a small pair of needle nose pliers. (this also helps dissipate the torch heat through the pliers) I then use a very small tapered straight pick and work the loop until it opens a bit

I then reposition the pliers to a point higher on the lug, right at the point to where the loop should be. I then increase the pressure on the pick until I get the desired loop.

I have done this very successfully about a dozen times. Once (my first time) I was not all that successful, I damaged one lug

[guest_000]

I have found that once pinched the metal is fatigued and brittle so my advice for what it is worth is the front is what counts leave it alone and be happy with what you have

PAUL

[Unknownsoldier]

Has anyone tried using a metal punch (the ones used for staring a pilot hole in metal) and gently tapping that through while resting the badge on some scrap wood??

Tom

[Pylon1357]

Originally Posted by Unknownsoldier

Has anyone tried using a metal punch (the ones used for staring a pilot hole in metal) and gently tapping that through while resting the badge on some scrap wood??

Tom

Tom, the pick I use is very sharp, and tapered. Almost as sharp a needle. However, as Paul says, must be very careful of fatigued metal in the loops.

If the loops are fatigued, you can usually see this in the form of a small crack or line of discoloration at the top of the loop.

I should have stated in my post that I have only attempted this on low end badges, such as an RCA badge, a couple of RCE and an IrRC Other Ranks badge. I would be rather hesitant to try this on a higher end badge. The one I botched was a QOR badge that I have yet to identify the era of.

[Unknownsoldier]

I'll see what rubish I have lying around in my badge box and grab one to try, I'll also attempt to post some pic's.

Tom

[wright241]

Originally Posted by Unknownsoldier

I'll see what rubish I have lying around in my badge box and grab one to try, I'll also attempt to post some pic's.

Tom

Thanks. On closer inspection I can't see any visible signs of any fracturing at all, only the grip/teeth marks left by a pair of pliers.

[guest_000]

If you have grip teeth marks then you have fatique . They are fractures in the metal tiny Vs so be careful

PAUL