Well here is another 'bad' one with exactly the same slider, which discounts Jim's badge being doctored with an original look-a-like slider. Hopefully you can also see in the photograph (bad badge on the right) that braze, not solder, has been used to fix the reinforcing rods. That hopefully also answers the braze/solder question.
Before reading this thread, I hadn't totally discounted my 'bad' badge as a fake, though it is very new looking and there are notable differences between it and what I believe to be an original one. I show both for comparison. Apart from the lettering the most striking feature is that the crown on the 'bad' one is noticeably thinner. Also the cross at the top of the crown is at the same height as the lance points whereas the fatter crown's cross on my original is slightly higher than the lance points.
My reasoning for not discounting it was that both front and rear detail are excellent and I had put the crown size differences down to a makers variation such as the crown size difference on 12th lancers. Interestingly KK and Gaylor's images all show a fatter crowned 9th, whereas a thinner crown is shown in Cox and Doyle/Foster.
I may have to change my mind now after seeing the Marsh fakes all with the same die features, but I cannot figure why Marsh would expend such a lot of effort on this particular badge. Quite a fiddly and lengthy job adding 4 pieces of rod and brazing it all place! Definitely a conundrum for me!
Mark
Last edited by dubaiguy; 21-06-20 at 10:50 AM.
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