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#1
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Verdigris
A number of my badges seem to be getting verdigris, mainly on the backs, despite being kept in an oak wellington cabinet in a centrally heated well ventilated room. What are the best ways to remove and prevent this happening please.
Many thanks Denis |
#2
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Are they mounted on anything?
It depends how heavy the verdigris is but a slight dab of WD40 will neutralise it and stop it progressing if light. It’ll send it a darker toned GM colour which is preferable to green and will not affect the rest of the badge or it’s patina. It may be worth putting some silica packs in the cabinet as sounds like moisture has got in at some stage. |
#3
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Many thanks Luke, they are mounted on old velvet over cardboard. I will certainly have a go with WD40 and get some silicon bags to go in the drawers.
Regards Denis |
#4
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Sounds like the velvet/cardboard has got damp at some stage. It might be worth taking some measures to ensure it’s now fully dry before re-mounting after you’ve dealt with the verdigris.
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#5
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A cold cabinet will draw in warm humid air that will then condense inside into your cloth and cardboard which is why you're getting verdigris on the back our badges.
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#6
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I have had odd problems in the past where one badge in a drawer of 40 or 50 badges all laid out together has got bad verdigris but the rest are fine, strange how that happens. Maybe the metal quality different on that single badge.
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#7
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I use a suede brush.
Andy
__________________
Leave to carry on Sir please. |
#8
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Verdigris
Many thanks to you all for your helpful replies. I have now left all the drawers open to circulate the air, ordered some silicon gel bags, am in the process of treating with WD40 and have used a suede brush on the couple of very bad ones and with 100% success.
A very few of the badges seem to have produced an area of red colour (does anyone know what this is?) on the gilding metal and the suede brush has been excellent in removing that what ever it is. Some also have only tiny black specks on the surface which I have rubbed with WD40. It is interesting that, as someone already commented, a drawer of 100 badges or so, only 3 or 4 show any signs of being affected. It is wonderful how knowledgable and helpful members of the forum are, much appreciated. Denis |
#9
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The red areas are where the zinc has been drawn out of the metal leaving a higher percentage of copper.
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#10
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Verdigris
Thank you Magpie, is it also damp that has caused this?
Regards Denis |
#11
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I've got Victorian gilded buttons that, kept in a loft, turned a uniform dull brick red, as if they'd been painted.
Lemon juice brought them back, good as new. I think the only badge I have with copper coloured patches is a West Yorks one, the copper colouring being on the white metal horse. The badge was stained black when I got it, I think with a soot like deposit which I took to be the result of being in a fire but maybe muck due to damp? |
#12
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Hi
You can also clean by briefly soaking in a mixture of a little table salt and white vinegar but you must be sure to remove all trace of the salt or you are back to square one! One method is to then boil them in a little dish washing detergent and tap water. I was also told that silicone car polish will help keep the air from the article. I once knew a bayonet collector who used this quite successfully. One member has mentioned the use of a suede brush but a jeweller's supplies place will sell you a nice soft bronze brush that is much softer and larger. |
#13
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Just saw an old Repair Shop episode where this was referred to as "red rot"....
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#14
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Quote:
A member of the IWM staff swore by it at a militaria collectors meeting I went to years ago. |
#15
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Hi Leigh
Yes, I've heard of that stuff. I would think that dear old Jack (bayonet collector) wouldn't have. Interesting to see what the price differential is.... |
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