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  #1  
Old 06-11-21, 09:56 AM
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Paddy Paddy is offline
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Default Low Melting Point Brass Brazing Rods/Wire

Hello All

In the past when I have repaired broken lugs or sliders I have used silver solder which I believe has a melting point of approx 630 - 660 degrees. The problem is that the silver stands out a lot against the gilding metal. Is anyone aware of any brass coloured brazing rods/wire that will melt around the same temperature or even less.

Many thanks

Paddy
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  #2  
Old 07-11-21, 12:40 AM
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Hi Paddy

My suggestion would be to talk to the local welding supplies place (British Oxygen for us...) as they have an amazing range of rods and alloys.

I have a friend who has repaired stuff for me and he uses silver solder BUT, so he says, the mistake many make is that they think that if a little is good, a lot can be only better.

I despair when I see a badge with a pound of plumber's lead solder on it. These are almost impossible to fix as the lead makes the new silver solder joint very brittle, although they can be done.

He says that if the joint is cleaned well (and this is another mistake that folk make) you would be surprised how little is needed. He flattens and cuts the rod into tiny little chips and uses a solder pick to place them at the base of the lug. It also depends if you apply the solder to the lug/ slider or to the badge and which you chose to heat first.

You can also use jeweller's silver solder which is much finer and requires very little.

The old guys used to make up their own alloys and, for some reason, removing a lug from a damaged badge to use on a repair means that the badge is almost melting before the lug (reluctantly) lets go.

OK hope that may have helped you a bit!
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  #3  
Old 07-11-21, 01:24 AM
Artynut Artynut is online now
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I’ll stick my oar in and definitely agree with “dumdum” . The key to start is , prepare all parts and tools close at hand. Patience, and cleanliness! Take your time and clean the two parts to be joined. “Tin” the two faces, (a very thin application of the joining medium). Your heat source should be at the minimum temperature required to make the medium “run” (be molten), use whatever tools needed to hold the two parts together. Make sure that the tools to hold the parts are not too large or cumbersome as to act as a heat sink when you re apply the torch the the area to be joined, (that will cause an automatic reαcation to raise the temperature, NOT GOOD!). You may have to add a minute amount of the joining medium at this time. Practice makes perfect! All the best, D.J.
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Old 07-11-21, 03:27 AM
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Hi D.J. and Paddy

Nice to know that I'm on the right track! I've spoken to John who "does" for me and he's suggested that Paddy should visit his local jewellery supply place and get:
2-3 pairs of crosslock tweezers (they have small riveted wooden pads that disperse the heat). Warning: they can still get hot and the cone of a flame can burn you quite nicely...

some good quality solder flux for silver. John uses borax but there is some liquid stuff that looks like urine (yes, it's true) called Batten's flux

jeweller's silver solder in sheet or wire form

a charcoal block to solder on

John says that he only tins one part of the work (usually the lug/ slider) but fluxes both areas. He's told me that when I next visit he will let me take some photos of before and after!

Watch this space!

Last edited by dumdum; 07-11-21 at 03:29 AM. Reason: Crosslock tweezers hold the lug or slider in the angled jaws
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Old 07-11-21, 07:37 AM
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If you ever watch the "Repair Shop" on tv,the guy who does the silver repairs usually uses chipped solder when repairing stuff.
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  #6  
Old 07-11-21, 09:27 AM
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Yes, a few people try to use the solder rod when doing a repair.

This has the effect of melting too much solder onto the work with resulting "blob"....

In the most extreme instance, it can flow around to the front of the badge and you'll never clean up that mess!
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