Equipment for repairing badges

[Tinto]

Hello All,

I would be grateful for advice on the best equipment to get for the repair of badges, mainly for the replacement of lugs and sliders.

My experience of soldering is limited to metalwork classes when I was at school. I'm sure soldering irons suitable for badge repair are much more sophisticated now.

Thanks,

Tinto

[billy]

Tinto, lovely idea but you also need to know the acid to dip badges into to restore the disscolouration?

As to tools you can get butane torches - varying in size 6 inches ( one I would likely go for) to 10 inches, Silver solder with outer sheath of flux so a quick in and out (localised heat), and a clamping arrangementto hold lug/slider, most importantly Space! - for a bench, vice etc. Your own little workshop and wouldn't go amiss is some "Firebricks" to set the badge upon while mending! Also prctice and a supply of lugs?

Sounds so easy! But have toyed with the idea but the acid-dip (actually the word Acid! Flips me out!) Have considered the stuff you paint on brickwork to clean them up as this was used to clean up Silver Soldered components where I once worked, how this would treat Enameled badges? I honestly have no idea?

Look forward to some more posts on here there are a few members who repair will be interesting to hear their thoughts? We must at this time be thinking how to restore those broken badges now Dave C has gone! R.I.P. Dave!

All the best will follow this as it has implications to us all and I may find a nugget of information to set me straight on the How also? Cheers billy

[Sonofacqms]

I think Billy has just about covered every possibility regarding repairs, time, patience and experience are all to be taken into consideration as well. Things do not always go to plan and trial and error with badges that are not too valuable are often a good idea.

As for acids, I would be cautious . . !

Rob

[billy]

Hi Rob was hoping you would come along on this! How else does one remove the discoloration otherwise? In regards to this on the Safety side eye protection (grinding googles or appropriate Eye Shield and Rubber Gloves), the Brick acid if comming onto skin will sting and running under cold water removes it - but is still an Acid ! So to be handled respectively, also keep out of reach of kids and labled as such (locked away) would not go amiss!

See already the list grows! On Safety the Butane cannisters storage, keep away from direct sunlight and high up out of reach, also break component pieces apart maybe? If possible and reassembled for use! If you where you do this every day it wouldn't hurt to leave everything intact and lock the door! But that isn't likely unless one takes it on as a concern!

All the best billy

[Tonyn]

Originally Posted by Sonofacqms

I think Billy has just about covered every possibility regarding repairs, time, patience and experience are all to be taken into consideration as well. Things do not always go to plan and trial and error with badges that are not too valuable are often a good idea.

As for acids, I would be cautious . . !

Rob

I'd have a go with some restrikes/repros first by removing the lugs or slider and then trying to resolder them back on. After that I'd probably give up

As Rob says, time patience and experience.

Tony

[orasot]

I have everything I need for my repairs, it's called Magpie
End of!
Wilf

[Sonofacqms]

Billy,

Many years ago a friend of mine who was on the scientific side of things made me a solution which he called "Brightdip" from a cocktail of acids, now I don't know exactly what he made this from, but it cleaned up repaired badges like they were newly struck.

An old friend of mine who I did the odd repair for used to complain that they looked like they were made last week, so I don't use acids at all these days, just good old elbow grease and metal polish.

Rob

[billy]

Rob I understand what you say but heat leaves a reddish tinge thst only the acid removes? But having never actually done this I acept advice, I have though seen the results of said Brick watch? All the best billy

[wardog]

My dad was a builder and used Spirits of Salt to clean his tools https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid
Strong stuff- put it on a brass shell case once for too long and got copper streaks on the surface. I have used it on badges but only as a last resort. Regards, Paul.

[Tinto]

Thanks Everybody for your replies.

Cheers, Tinto

[Keith Blakeman]

Concentrated sulphuric acid (from car batteries) is supposedly the best but I wouldn't dare to have it in the house so I use jewelers pickle from ebay. It's not as lethal but still burns a bit if you're not careful, the last lot I bought wasn't really up to it though no matter how strong I mixed it.

I use a butune/propane torch, borax flux mixed with a little water and silver solder or Benzomatic copper rods from B&Q, they still have a silver finish though and don't look like the old braze. I only do wire fittings, loops (available from Badgeman on ebay believe it or not) and the odd shank. I wouldn't trust myself to do a crown.

[sketchley kid]

I used 'Baker's Fluid' and a electricians small iron..